Organizing Your Home Base (National Institute)

Organizing Your Information
It is most important to decide as early as possible how you are going to organize your accumulation of genealogical material. You will need to make decisions about how and where you are going to organize Facts (Data) as well as your supporting Documentation.

Whatever system is used must be capable of expansion since you are involved with a growing collection of materials. It must be simple to use and be consistent throughout your work. Spending time thinking and planning how you are going to organize before you begin is far easier on the nerves and leads to greater productivity.

Organization implies thinking out a system that will work for you, and planning the actual spaces to file facts (data) and the four types of genealogical information (oral, written, visual and artefacts.) We’ll deal with each of these in turn. Remember that the most efficient system for you will be planned around how you want to retrieve items from it. In other words, how you want to access it determines how best to set it up.

Computers and Card Indexes will store facts but not documents or other evidence, although scanning now allows more options. Certainly computers and cards can store citations for the sources. Both can be used to manipulate information, but card indexes are very limited in this respect, whereas computers are the ultimate luxury system. File Folders and Binders will store facts and information on paper (documentation), but will not sort and manipulate the data.

Nowadays most genealogists prefer a combination of:


 * A computer for storage and manipulation of facts (data).
 * Either file folders or binders for keeping a hard copy from the computer together with the documentation.
 * Other appropriate storage facilities for oral and visual media and artefacts.

Warning: With family history one tends to get diverted into other fascinating areas such as local history, or particular trades or professions associated with one’s ancestors. If you develop interests in such subjects then you should set up separate filing systems for them, by subject. You would then choose storage and organization systems appropriate to that collection. For example, you may have all your ancestors in file folders, but find it convenient to have an indexed binder for your collection of documents on ships, or shoemaking, or ancestral villages. Do not try to combine subject material into ‘people’ files or binders. Mixed systems do not work!

Computers
Computers are designed to store, process and communicate information (Hawgood 1995) and this is precisely what you will be doing—storing, processing and communicating information about people, their family connections and the events in their lives. To find the latest information on available genealogy programmes and their capabilities consult:


 * Wikipedia - Comparison of Genealogy Software
 * GenBox Family History - Genealogy Software Features Comparison Chart
 * Comparing Windows Genealogy Software Programs
 * GenSoftReviews
 * Cyndi’s List - Software and Computers
 * S and N Genealogy Supplies
 * TWR Computing Has details of the UK software Family Historian 
 * Software: LINUX-GENEALOGY Mailing List

Card Indexes
Formerly, many genealogists used 3" x 5" or 4" x 6" card indexes for storing data about individuals. With a standard notation system on each card and arranged alphabetically by surname, then first name, then by date of birth this was a wonderfully simple system. A sample of such a card is illustrated here.

Index Card Notation System 

Card indexes suffer from a few drawbacks when compared with other methods, for example:


 * The amount of storable data is limited by the size of the card.
 * Relationships are not easy to see at a glance beyond parents and children.
 * One cannot store the documentation along with the data.
 * Cards have to be rewritten when too messy with additions and alterations.
 * Storage space is a problem with a large study as one long drawer only holds about 750 cards. I didn’t fancy starting my 35,000 JUPP study this way.
 * If you tip the box over you are lost!

However, card files still have their uses in special projects, especially if you don’t have a computer. If you want to keep an inventory of all of the houses that your folks have lived in, or ships they have served on, or a bibliography file or list of heirlooms, and so on, a card file can be just right for your purpose. Most genealogists nowadays prefer to use a computer for storing and managing their data, and one of the next two methods for storing their documentation.

File Folders
File folders can be combined with storage of documentation if you are not using a computer, or if computerized, at least a Family Group Record computer printout should be placed at the front of each couple’s file. Hard copies of all your data and documentation can be stored together, making it simple to review each person’s data. It is somewhat simpler to find the right family in files than in binders, but they are not as good to transport and display.

Indexed Binders
Indexed binders can be combined with storage of documentation if you are not using a computer, or if computerized, at least a Family Group Record computer printout should be placed at the front of each couple’s section. Printed copies of all your data and documentation can be stored together, making it simple to review each person’s data. Binders are easier to transport and show to your family than file folders, but perhaps a little less convenient to find a particular family.

Organization of Oral Information
Tapes should have labels and detailed lists of contents. Do this as soon as you make them or you will forget the details! You could keep all your transcripts in one file, or put them in the file for the person with whom you talked. Consistency is important: treat each in the same manner, then you will know where to look for any one item. Each fact gleaned from the interview should then be added to the appropriate person’s file, with a notation as to its source. For example if, when talking to Aunt Edna, you found out that Uncle George was married in 1928, then put that fact in Uncle George’s file as, “In 1986 Aunt Edna BROWN told me that her brother George STEVENS was married in 1928.”

Organization of Written Information
Here the big decision is whether to go with file folders or binders. Consider the storage space available at home as well as what suits you personally. Some people just get along better with neatly labelled binders on a shelf. Others are much happier with a systematically organized filing cabinet. Plan for expansion, this hobby just grows and grows!

Go to your local office superstore and examine the wide range of folders, binders and colour-coded indexers available. When you buy, keep the packaging materials, as well as noting the store name and price, so you can advise your nearest and dearest what you would really like for Christmas and birthday presents!

Once you have decided whether you are a file folder person or a binder addict, the next thing is to consider which method of organizing your documents will work best for you: In Order of Acquisition, By Ancestral Number, By Generation or By Ancestral Name. It is best to choose the simplest system that will do the job for any particular project.

1. In Order of Acquisition
One simply numbers each item as it is acquired and then files them in numerical order in a file folder (which will rapidly become a series of file folders), or in your loose-leaf binder(s).

With this method you will need to firstly, keep at the front of the folder/binder a list of items held, and secondly, cross-reference by making a note on the appropriate ancestor’s file card, computer page or family group sheet of the item held and its number.

Example of Order of Acquisition Method

This method is easy to implement but suffers from the drawback that it is hard to review the material on any one person quickly and there is no provision for general family information. It is useful in certain types of collections ancillary to your main research.

For example:


 * Collection of pictures of various ships associated with your family
 * Your collection of tape recordings
 * Organizing a heap of miscellaneous information

2. By Ancestral Number
Here one chooses a system of numbering ancestors, for example the standard Sosa-Stradonitz Pedigree Chart numbers and creates a file folder or binder section for each one. Everything for that ancestor is then filed together in that folder or section, and these are filed numerically.

Example of Ancestral Number Method

This system works well for those researching only their direct ancestors, and can be modified to include siblings of ancestors (4a, 4b, 4c etc.) and still work well. It is simple to understand and use. One needs a standard Sosa-Stradonitz -numbered pedigree chart close at hand to remind one of the ancestral number for each ancestor.

To include more relatives, one can use a more complex numbering system of course, but one is still limited to the amount of numbers in the chosen system.

Some of these mathematical systems are horrendously complex. If one’s research goals include more than just ‘siblings of ancestors’ this method is rather unwieldy, especially for the beginner. The author prefers to not reduce ancestors to mere numbers. For most genealogists names are far easier to work with and one gets to know the people this way. It is much more interesting to work with George the parson and George the butcher than with IIIa7b and IVd4h.

With this method there is no provision for general family information.

3. By Generation—Ascending or Descending
Here each couple has a file folder or binder section, and these are filed according to their place within the family, generation by generation. One can proceed backwards in time starting with yourself (Ascending—see chart below), or forwards, starting with your remotest ancestor (Descending—see chart below). With these methods there is no provision for general family information.

There are also several complications which are outlined below, but these systems do have particular uses.

Example of Generation Method—Ascending

This method works well if you are researching only one surname line; a separate binder or file drawer/section would have to be used for each additional surname. Advantages are that siblings can be next to each other in date order, there is a logical progression backwards in time, and you can continue to add further generations as you research further back.

There are problems as your data expands as it is more difficult to keep track of where each file is located, you have to refer to an index at the front, or have an incredible memory.

Example of Generation Method—Descending

This works well for those interested only in the descendants of one couple. There is a logical progression forwards through the generations, and newly discovered branches, newlyweds and newborn twigs can readily be added. As the data expands an indexed descendancy chart would be essential in locating particular files.

A slight disadvantage is that if one decided later to research further back in time, thought has to be given to the correct placement of the additional sections at the front.

4. By Ancestral Name
In this method each couple has a file folder or binder section, filed alphabetically according to the husband’s surname then first name. All documents pertaining to this couple and their unmarried children are kept in this file/section. A child in whom you are interested, whether married or not, has his or her own file, and copies of items relating to their birth/christening and early life are transferred from their parents’ to their own file.

It is very useful to have a general file, differentiated by colour, for each family name. One can collect here the correspondence on this family and any general material relating to several people, and even items that look interesting but have not yet been assigned to a file of their own, such as miscellaneous christenings of possible family members.

Example of Ancestral Name Method: Starting Stage

Suggested Order of Arrangement of Items Within a Couple’s Folder

The General Family Information Folder can be subdivided as it gets bigger into Census Records, Correspondence, Family Trees, Parish Register Entries as shown in the chart below.

Example of Ancestral Name Method: Middle Stage

Method 4 (By Ancestral Name) is probably the most popular method as it enables one to review all of the material for any one person quickly, and allows of infinite expansion in any direction that research may take in the future. An alphabetical arrangement is the simplest method of finding anyone quickly, but one would need to refer to the family charts to find where they fit into the family. There is, in addition, plenty of expandable room for general family information.

You may find that file folders are your choice for people, but binders are preferable for subjects. This is OK; but do then keep all the people in folders' 'and all the subjects in binders''. ''

Example of Ancestral Name Method: Advanced Stage 

Organization of Visual Information
Your illustrations, whether photographs or other materials, will first have to be identified. Together with the gathering of oral history this should be any researcher’s first priority as the source of information won’t be around forever. Identify your photos before the relative with all the knowledge in her head dies.

You should attempt to find out the identity of the subject, the date, the location, and whether there was a special reason for a photo to be taken or illustration bought. In the days when photography was still a novelty and up until about World War II few people had their photo taken without there being a reason. Perhaps a couple just got engaged, a young man was about to leave on army service, or the group was a 50th wedding anniversary party.

Similarly, if one finds an illustration or photograph of a shop, church or house amongst family papers there must have been a reason for someone to save that item. The family historian should always ask herself, “Why was this picture taken, or this clipping saved?” The answer will often provide further insights into the family history.

During the examination of each old photograph note the name and address of the photographer, and look on the back for any other clues. Old directories can be searched to find the years of operation of a certain photographer at certain addresses, and this will aid in identification.

If you inherit a boxful of mainly unlabelled, amateur snapshots set aside an afternoon (or six!) and try this technique:


 * First write down what you know about the photos’ provenance (where they came from).

*Go through the box carefully and number each photo lightly on the back with a pigma pen, and make notes as to which photos are in the same envelope. It could be important later in the identification process to be able to reassemble the original order. *Start a file of cards, sheets of paper or on computer with a section for each numbered photo. *Sort the photos into piles by size. This helps to associate a group of photos with a camera, and perhaps a person who took them. *Next take each pile and sort further by any distinguishing developers’ numbers or marks stamped on the back, or fancy cut edges, or width of white margins. This groups them into individual films and hence makes a grouping in time. *Now take a look at one pile and see if you can identify any person, place, date or event. These should be written in that photo’s file, and as photos tend to be taken in groups then some of this information may be transferable to others on the same film pile. Identities may not be more than ‘man with large moustache’, ‘garden backing onto railway line’, or ‘same girl as in pictures 18 and 76’ at this stage, but you can build a profile of each photo and each film pile. *Go through all other piles in similar fashion, adding all ideas and notes on similarities to your individual photo files. *You can now start to compare the piles and make them into a timeline. Try and figure out who took each film. *Compare with information and photos of known people, places and events that you already possess. *Show them to older family members, for example by sending a photocopy of a group of photos―these may be more readily identifiable than a single photo. Don’t forget older friends and neighbours as well. *When sending photos to others to assist in identification it helps to:


 * First photocopy the pictures, perhaps in groups if they are small ones, but with room to write on the page.
 * Carefully store your originals.
 * Number the pictures on the first set of photocopies and keep the set.
 * Make copies of your set of photocopies and mail to relatives.
 * Ask them to mark up and send back, or (if they wish to keep the photocopies) describe them by number.
 * Ask for any names, dates, places and events that they can remember, and also if they have any other photos not in this collection. A collection of old family photos may have been divided between relatives at the death of an ancestor, so other relatives may have others from the set.
 * Follow-ups by phone are simple as you can refer to the picture number.
 * Indicate that you want to be able to share all photos (free or at reasonable cost) with any family member who is interested.
 * Photographs may be filed together with the written documentation in binders or file folders, in a separate photograph album, or in photo envelopes in boxes. Other illustrations can be stored either in the ancestor’s file that they refer to, or in a separate illustrations album, or binder with page protectors. Specific albums designed to hold postcards are available.

Notes should be kept in each person’s file as to what photos and other illustrations pertaining to them are in your collection, where you have filed them and who owns the originals.

Organization of Artefacts
Try to identify each item as far as possible as to its history of ownership and date of manufacture, and then keep notes in the relevant ancestral files. They can provide important clues as to occupations, interests and hobbies.

Organizing Your Home Base
Few amateur researchers have the luxury of a whole room to set aside as a genealogical office or library. Most of us start out on the kitchen table with a box stored in a closet or under the bed. But the needs for storage space, a permanent family history desk, not to mention time and some peace and quiet, soon grow.

There are naturally benefits to consolidation of all your genealogy materials into one location. This section will deal with those items you will need close at hand as ‘desk needs’, and other items as ‘office needs’. The principle of storing something where you use it seems to work best.

At Your Desk
The most-used items are kept within arm’s reach, thus at my desk I keep these items:


 * Computer and its peripherals, computer manuals, labels, empty CDs/DVDs, most-used CD indexes.


 * Reading lights, magnifying light, stapler, tape, hole puncher, pens, several paperweights.


 * Calendar, telephone, phone books, lots of bookmarks, post-it notes, envelopes (small and business sizes of white and airmail), stamps, letter-scale and post office rates, horizontal files for paper (new white bond, used white, used yellow, used other colours), a copy of all local library and FHS brochures.


 * Useful general books, mainly How-To and reference materials, and subject binders.


 * Vertical slots for data arriving e.g. for my own family, and my 5 One-Name Studies, one for urgent pending projects such as letters awaiting sterling money orders before mailing, slots with a file pocket for each library I visit containing items to take there (notices, donations, items for people).


 * Horizontal files for ‘jobs’ and ‘filing’—done in odd moments and pile kept to a minimum.


 * My Desk Reference File—a simple duotang with my pedigree chart, lists of ancestral names and places, list of FHSs of which I am a member with my # and renewal dates, plus several small ‘reminder notes’ such as exact dates of British Censuses, roman numerals, temple codes and so forth.

In Your Office
Elsewhere in your office, keep the items that you don’t use so often, or don’t need at your desk. Filing cabinets containing:


 * Supplies and forms
 * FHS information
 * Files of first transcripts of parish registers, censuses read
 * Files for Record Agents used
 * Family Files (or binders)

Note on Computer Back-ups
Experienced users save their work regularly, say every 15 minutes, and make a complete back-up of new work every day. Occasionally a computer back-up will malfunction and today’s back-up will be a failure, to which the answer is multiple, dated, rotating back-ups. Most experts recommend keeping several back-ups on devices such as a portable drive, CD/DVD, or flash drive. You may also want to keep a bakup online through a paid backup website service or through a means of cloud computing like Dropbox. Sometimes corruption problems do not become apparent for a long time, and all of your multiple disks will by then have corrupt data. This can be disastrous for those with large files of genealogy. If you don’t want to have to type it all in again then the safeguard here is to make a permanent back-up every so often and never replace it. How does this work for the average family historian?

Absolutely Safe Back-up Scheme for Family History Data

Back-up disks A, B and C would be stored away from your computer. If you have a break-in the thieves would likely take your disks as well as your computer equipment if they are easily found nearby.

The permanent disks would be stored off-site, for example in your bank deposit box, an office, or at a friend or relative’s house. They are a permanent record of your data as of that date and never get replaced. Thus if you encounter a long-standing problem you will have copies of your data for every 4th time you added something and would be able to recoup the majority of your work.

With this system you will have three sites where your work is stored: in your computer, somewhere else in your residence not near your computer, and one set away from home. Thus you are secure from loss. The exact number of rotating disks doesn’t matter—businesses often have one for each day of the week. Also, some folks make a permanent back-up disk daily.

Building a Basic Library
My own library fulfills my needs as the family historian of my own family, as a professional and as a One Name student. It is therefore larger than most, but contains the same kinds of materials, just more of each. A library of any size should be organized so that any book or item is instantly accessible. Sections I use include:


 * How-To and Reference books on genealogy and related subjects
 * Topographical books. I organize mine into country and county sections
 * Binders containing papers and leaflets for each geographical area of interest. The binder sections I have found useful are: Archives, Indexes, Maps, Places, and Sources for each county of England.
 * Occupations


 * Family History Society journals. After I have read and processed them they get filed in magazine boxes lined across the top of my bookcases.


 * Maps and atlases. My maps are stored in number order in their sets in labelled shoe boxes. Each set has at the front or side an overall map highlighted with the ones that I have. For a map in frequent use consider making a photocopy and laminating it to prevent wear on the original.


 * Computer manuals and instructions for your machines and indexes


 * Photography and postcards


 * Dictionaries


 * My own scrapbooks, photo albums, slide collection, and postcard collection


 * History and Biography books


 * Names including surnames, first names, place names plus


 * Genealogical Directories

Building a good family history library will involve many visits to second hand book stores and library discard sales. Go prepared with a list of what you have and what you need. Examples of these are shown in Charts 12 to 14.

My Library Collection: Example of Listing

My Map Collection: Example of Listing

Local Histories Needed

A more extensive treatment of the subject of building a personal library can be found in the Heritage Series book, Organizing a Genealogy Library.

Finding Supplies
The local Family History or Genealogy Society usually has a Bookstall with items of general and local interest. They are the best sources for indexes of censuses, parish registers, etc.

The local Archives or Record Office would know of, and often sells, local histories, maps and research guides.

Thrift stores are a great source of inexpensive office supplies such as binders, paper, hanging file folders, bookshelves and lamps.

A wonderful convenience on the Internet for British and other researchers is Family History Books which now incorporates GENFAIR, the online family history fair with a secure credit card facility. Here you will find a huge number of family history societies and commercial suppliers of books, microfiches, software, CDs, FHS memberships, search services etc. Service is fast, 3-10 days from England to B.C., Canada, and it is so convenient for renewing memberships and buying all kinds of genealogical supplies.

See Cyndi's List webpage for her Organizing Your Research section for links to sites providing charts and forms. There is also an article on finding charts and forms online by Cavell. I hope that the list of suppliers in the chart below will be useful in finding other supplies. Send for their free catalogues.

Some Genealogical Suppliers

Dealing with Incoming Paperwork
There is only one way to retain control over the inevitable pile of paperwork, and your sanity. This applies to replying to mail as well as filing research notes and document copies. Set aside a regular time for dealing with the incoming paperwork and DO IT!


 * Remember: If you don’t file it―you won’t find it!

Dealing with Family History Society Journals
I subscribe to about 20 family history journals; I carry a couple with me at all times so they get read whilst waiting for appointments or travelling. How do I recall all the neat ideas that I find and remember to write to the various indexes and contacts that are mentioned therein? I deal with journals efficiently as follows:


 * 1) Reading them with a highlighter pen in hand, flagging items I need to act on or refer to later. I then put them in one magazine box at my desk for processing. When it’s full I process them, otherwise the situation gets out-of-hand. It’s good for practicing self-discipline!
 * 2) Processing which involves acting on items such as:


 * Writing letters, buying indexes or books by mail, and filing research ideas.
 * Noting useful indexes, sources, articles and fellow researchers in myVade Mecum (Latin = ‘go with me’, a handy reference book), actually a computer list sorted by alphabetical categories such as topics and families. The chart below shows a sample from my Vade Mecum. From time to time one can go and print off all the references pertinent to a topic of current interest and work with them.
 * Photocopying interesting items to add to family files or topic binders.

Sample from Vade Mecum List

3. Filing journals in date order. I file mine in magazine boxes on top of bookshelves, alphabetically by county for England, putting miscellaneous ones in other convenient spots.

It is far more efficient to make notes about items in a Vade Mecum and then file journals where you can find them quickly, than to end up with huge piles of bookmarked journals ‘that you’ll get to someday!’

Your Bibliography File!
Be sure to record every source that you have searched. At any time during your research you (or anyone else) should be able to study your records and see what you have already done.

SO RIGHT NOW!! set up a bibliography file for the reference books and documents that you have consulted. This can be a simple 3" x 5" card file, or one of the many computer indexes available with word processing or genealogy programmes, or separately. Include standard details of Title, Author, Date, Publisher and then a reference to Your File Names/Numbers where the information found in it has been noted. You decide whether to file by Title, Author, or Subject. Just be consistent and make sure that it will work for you. To be effective it must be used, and this requires self-discipline. Be very particular about filing references as you add each new piece of information and each new source, including negative searches.

Each ancestral file should refer back to each of the references consulted for that person or family with a brief note (e.g. Marriage 12 June 1854 from Smith 1968) and the Bibliography will then give you the full details of Smith’s book published in 1968.

Keeping Track of FamilySearch Center Microforms
Keep a computer list of films (or sources) read showing the number, a brief title, and what family it was for. This will save you no end of grief many years down the road—trust me I wish had done it!

Multi-Purpose Numbers Chart
For keeping track of a whole host of items, a Number Sheet (1-1000) can be found in the Appendix. Each number can simply be highlighted when it is done, and for numbers over 1000 simply head further sheets ‘1000s’, ‘2000s’ etc. These can be colour-coded to indicate paternal and maternal lines. Some examples of uses include:


 * Checking off which 1891 census Piece Numbers I have read.
 * Summarizing which maps in a long, numbered series I possess.
 * Noting which ancestors have been identified, using the Sosa-Stradonitz numbers. These can be colour-coded to indicate paternal and maternal lines.

Numbering Systems
'''Do you need a numbering system? If you can’t think of a good reason—don’t bother!'''

Names are easier to work with, and your head can keep track of several hundred. When numbers get into the thousands, then a numbering system can help you organize ancestors into groups of one kind or another. However, most genealogy programmes are capable of counting, sorting and printing out lists of descendants or ancestors of a named individual. Some will also tell you how any two people are related. Any numbering system needs to be flexible enough to add newly discovered ancestors, descendants, spouses, and siblings without going into hysterics. The author has devised a simple numbering system that may be useful to others.

Parameters used for Christensen Numbering System 

The Sosa-Stradonitz Ancestral Numbers: This system, first used in a family history published in 1676 by Spanish genealogist Jeronimo de Sosa, has now become the standard. Number 1 is the person whose pedigree you wish to chart, 2 is his or her father, 3 the mother, 4 the paternal grandfather, 5 the paternal grandmother etc. Thus all males have even numbers and all females odd ones, with the exception of number 1 which may be either. Any person’s father is twice his/her own number and their mother twice plus one e.g. number 6’s father is 12 and mother 13.

The Christensen System uses letters to show relationships to the ancestor.

Siblings—get the lower case letters a, b, c etc. added to my ancestor’s number. These don’t have to be in date order, so if I find another sibling then I just assign another number.

Spouses of siblings, and ancestor’s spouses that are not my direct ancestors get an upper case ‘S’ added to the base number. To keep it simple I only use S for the ancestor’s generation. All spouses of descendants are counted as descendants.

Descendants of my ancestor (except my direct line of course), just have an upper case ‘D’ added to the ancestor’s number. To keep it simple I use D to denote descendants (including spouses and step-children) only from an ancestor. Thus I use 62D rather than the form 31aD. This tells me at a glance which ancestor’s family this person belongs to, which is all I need to know. Some examples are shown in the chart below.

Examples of Christensen Numbers

The National Genealogical Society (of USA) has a handy reference booklet called Numbering Your Genealogy: Basic Systems, Complex Families and International Kin by Joan Curran, Madilyn Crane and John H. Wray. It explains the common North American usage of the Register System (New England Historical Genealogical Society) and the NGSQ System (NGS Quarterly).

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